Kevin, Author at Hope https://remodelupgrade.com/author/admin/ Just another Astra Starter Templates site Sun, 22 Dec 2024 03:22:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://remodelupgrade.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/cropped-cropped-REMODEL-32x32.png Kevin, Author at Hope https://remodelupgrade.com/author/admin/ 32 32 10 Best Garden Hoses Buyer’s Guide https://remodelupgrade.com/10-best-garden-hoses-buyers-guide/ https://remodelupgrade.com/10-best-garden-hoses-buyers-guide/#respond Sat, 21 Dec 2024 21:39:56 +0000 https://remodelupgrade.com/?p=4858 Finding the best garden hose can seem like a difficult task. There are so many hoses on the market, and they all have a different variety of features. There is a perfect garden hose for your home or work. Lets take a look at the best garden hoses and find the right one for you.  Contents Best Overall Garden Hose Best Garden Hose For Drinking Water Best Kink Free Garden Hose Best Expandable Garden Hose Section 5 Section 6 Section 7 Section 8 Best Overall Garden Hose Flexzilla Heavy Duty Garden Hose Flexzilla Heavy Duty Garden Hose Color:  Zilla Green Weight:  3.8 Pounds Diameter: 5/8 inch Pressure:  150 PSI Length: 50 feet (more options available) Price:  $38 Buy Now! The Flexzilla Garden Hose is all around an excellent option for many situations. It is highly versatile, giving it plenty of features that benefit in many ways. It’s bright color gives it plenty of visibility when you are doing tasks like mowing the lawn. Read below for a list  of some of the features this Flexzilla hose has. Key Features: Best Garden Hose Flexible: It doesn’t get stiff and difficult to handle no matter the weather conditions. Use this hose the same way in different environments and conditions.  Durable: This hose doesn’t wear down over time. Don’t worry about its losing durability after years of dragging it on multiple surface types. It handles cement, pebbles, brick and more well. It has an abrasion resistant outer cover that handles these surfaces. And the connection fittings are manufactured with airplane grade metal for a higher level of strength.  No Kinking: The materials it’s made of have been designed to greatly reduce the tendency of kinking. The materials also help you to coil it when putting it away. But the coils will unwind smoothly when in use, preventing it from kinking. Your sprinkler won’t easily turn when you turn on the hose. Lightweight:  At 3.8 pounds this hose is light enough to make it easy to use. Carry it comfortably to the hose bib you want to use it at when needed. Drag it around the yard with ease to use it wherever you need it.  Leak Free Connections: The connections don’t leak when in use. This hose won’t form a puddle on your patio because of a steady stream of drips at the bib. And you won’t get any unwanted dripping on yourself when you are using the hose. Drinking Water Safe: We all remember drinking from the hose when we were young. But now we are more aware of the effects of harmful chemicals when ingested. This hose is drinking water safe, helping you rest easy when your family gets thirsty when in the yard. The Flexzilla Garden Hose gives you all the features you can wish for. It is a perfect option for any home, giving you exactly what you are looking for. This all weather hose is lightweight, and leak free. Get your Flexzilla garden hose today. Best Garden Hose For Drinking Water Camco TastePURE Water Hose Camco TastePURE Water Hose Color:  White Weight:  1 Pound Diameter:  5/8 Inch Inner Diameter Pressure: Length: 25 Feet (more options available) Price:  $21.99 Buy Now! The Camco TastePURE 25 foot water hose is safe for drinking water. The materials it’s made of don’t have any harmful chemicals that you don’t want to ingest. This means you can use it for a wider range of activities than most other hoses. Key Features: Garden Hose For Drinking Drinking Water Grade Materials: This hose is made of drinking water grade materials. The materials used in this hose do not include lead, BPA, or phthalates, ensuring a healthy to drink stream of water. Give yourself a potable water level hose wherever you need it most. Lead Free: This certified lead free hose meets higher standards than other water hoses. You don’t need to worry about not knowing if you are ingesting harmful chemicals like lead, because there is none in this hose.  Versatile Uses: It can be used in more circumstances due to the higher grade materials used. Use it for RVing, camping, dog washing, and yard care among other options. Reinforced Materials: The diamond hatched reinforced PVC construction improves it’s kink resistance. Use it where you need it without any of the fuss.  Made in the USA: This is a proud product made in the USA. Support American businesses by purchasing this Camco TastePURE water hose. The Camco TastePURE garden hose is a great option for you. With the fact that it is safe to drink from you can use it in more applications. It’s great for an RV where you will want a potable water hose. Get your Camco TastePURE hose today. Best Kink Free Garden Hose Back to the Roots Kink Resistant Garden Hose Back to the Roots Kink Resistant Garden Hose Color:  Blue Weight:  6.8 Pounds Diameter: Pressure: Length:  50 Feet Price:  $42.99 Buy Now! The Back To The Roots Garden Hose is a great option if you are tired of fighting kinks. It’s lightweight making it easy to use where it’s needed. The connection is certified by the Arthritis Foundation because it is easy to connect. It has a guarantee making it a safe purchase with no risk on your end.  Key Features No Harmful Chemicals: Don’t worry about introducing harmful chemicals like Phthalates, Lead, and BPA to your garden. This hose does not have any in the materials it is made of. Lightweight: You won’t have trouble carrying it around the yard while you use it. The light weight product will be easy for you to take it where you need it to go.  Good for Arthritis: This hose is certified by the Arthritis Foundation for having a hose connection that is comfortable to grip. That means it’s easy for people who have trouble with arthritis to connect this hose to the spigot.  Durable: This durable hose is more than just kink resistant. It is less likely to tear, or

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Finding the best garden hose can seem like a difficult task. There are so many hoses on the market, and they all have a different variety of features. There is a perfect garden hose for your home or work. Lets take a look at the best garden hoses and find the right one for you. 

Contents

Best Overall Garden Hose

Best Garden Hose For Drinking Water

Best Kink Free Garden Hose

Best Expandable Garden Hose

Section 5

Section 6

Section 7

Section 8

Best Overall Garden Hose

Flexzilla Heavy Duty Garden Hose

Color:  Zilla Green

Weight:  3.8 Pounds

Diameter: 5/8 inch

Pressure:  150 PSI

Length: 50 feet (more options available)

Price:  $38

The Flexzilla Garden Hose is all around an excellent option for many situations. It is highly versatile, giving it plenty of features that benefit in many ways. It’s bright color gives it plenty of visibility when you are doing tasks like mowing the lawn. Read below for a list  of some of the features this Flexzilla hose has.

Key Features: Best Garden Hose

Flexible: It doesn’t get stiff and difficult to handle no matter the weather conditions. Use this hose the same way in different environments and conditions. 

Durable: This hose doesn’t wear down over time. Don’t worry about its losing durability after years of dragging it on multiple surface types. It handles cement, pebbles, brick and more well. It has an abrasion resistant outer cover that handles these surfaces. And the connection fittings are manufactured with airplane grade metal for a higher level of strength. 

No Kinking: The materials it’s made of have been designed to greatly reduce the tendency of kinking. The materials also help you to coil it when putting it away. But the coils will unwind smoothly when in use, preventing it from kinking. Your sprinkler won’t easily turn when you turn on the hose.

Lightweight:  At 3.8 pounds this hose is light enough to make it easy to use. Carry it comfortably to the hose bib you want to use it at when needed. Drag it around the yard with ease to use it wherever you need it. 

Leak Free Connections: The connections don’t leak when in use. This hose won’t form a puddle on your patio because of a steady stream of drips at the bib. And you won’t get any unwanted dripping on yourself when you are using the hose.

Drinking Water Safe: We all remember drinking from the hose when we were young. But now we are more aware of the effects of harmful chemicals when ingested. This hose is drinking water safe, helping you rest easy when your family gets thirsty when in the yard.

The Flexzilla Garden Hose gives you all the features you can wish for. It is a perfect option for any home, giving you exactly what you are looking for. This all weather hose is lightweight, and leak free. Get your Flexzilla garden hose today.

Best Garden Hose For Drinking Water

Color:  White

Weight:  1 Pound

Diameter:  5/8 Inch Inner Diameter

Pressure:

Length: 25 Feet (more options available)

Price:  $21.99

The Camco TastePURE 25 foot water hose is safe for drinking water. The materials it’s made of don’t have any harmful chemicals that you don’t want to ingest. This means you can use it for a wider range of activities than most other hoses.

Key Features: Garden Hose For Drinking

Drinking Water Grade Materials: This hose is made of drinking water grade materials. The materials used in this hose do not include lead, BPA, or phthalates, ensuring a healthy to drink stream of water. Give yourself a potable water level hose wherever you need it most.

Lead Free: This certified lead free hose meets higher standards than other water hoses. You don’t need to worry about not knowing if you are ingesting harmful chemicals like lead, because there is none in this hose. 

Versatile Uses: It can be used in more circumstances due to the higher grade materials used. Use it for RVing, camping, dog washing, and yard care among other options.

Reinforced Materials: The diamond hatched reinforced PVC construction improves it’s kink resistance. Use it where you need it without any of the fuss. 

Made in the USA: This is a proud product made in the USA. Support American businesses by purchasing this Camco TastePURE water hose.

The Camco TastePURE garden hose is a great option for you. With the fact that it is safe to drink from you can use it in more applications. It’s great for an RV where you will want a potable water hose. Get your Camco TastePURE hose today.

Best Kink Free Garden Hose

Color:  Blue

Weight:  6.8 Pounds

Diameter:

Pressure:

Length:  50 Feet

Price:  $42.99

The Back To The Roots Garden Hose is a great option if you are tired of fighting kinks. It’s lightweight making it easy to use where it’s needed. The connection is certified by the Arthritis Foundation because it is easy to connect. It has a guarantee making it a safe purchase with no risk on your end. 

Key Features

No Harmful Chemicals: Don’t worry about introducing harmful chemicals like Phthalates, Lead, and BPA to your garden. This hose does not have any in the materials it is made of.

Lightweight: You won’t have trouble carrying it around the yard while you use it. The light weight product will be easy for you to take it where you need it to go. 

Good for Arthritis: This hose is certified by the Arthritis Foundation for having a hose connection that is comfortable to grip. That means it’s easy for people who have trouble with arthritis to connect this hose to the spigot. 

Durable: This durable hose is more than just kink resistant. It is less likely to tear, or be crushed. That means you will be able to enjoy it longer. 

Manufacturer Guarantee: Send the manufacturer a message if you are unsatisfied. Their customer service team will either refund your money or replace the product for you.

#GrowOneGiveOne: Take a picture of your growing garden and share it on social media using the hashtag “#GrowOneGiveOne”. They will then donate a Grow Kit and STEM school curriculum to the classroom of your choice.

The Back To The Roots Garden Hose is a perfect choice for homeowners. It’s lightweight and easy to use, making it great for anybody. And if you send in a picture of your garden with the hashtag shown above they will make a donation to the classroom of your choice.

Best Expandable Garden Hose

Color:  Black

Weight:  2.5 Pounds

Diameter:

Pressure:

Length:  75 Feet (other options available)

Price:  $69.95

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How To Cut PVC Pipe https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-cut-pvc-pipe/ https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-cut-pvc-pipe/#respond Fri, 20 Dec 2024 04:40:25 +0000 https://remodelupgrade.com/?p=4810 Knowing how to cut PVC pipe the right way is a skill every homeowner should know. PVC has many uses around the house, other than the plumbing purposes it was designed for. Cutting PVC is much easier than you think. Read on to find out what the best way to cut PVC pipe is with the use you have in mind. PVC pipe is a plastic pipe that is available in various sizes. It’s possible to cut it with a large variety of tools, and we will be discussing several of them in this article. There are three tools that are the most commonly used to cut PVC pipe. The number one tool is a hacksaw. Next is a ratcheting PVC pipe cutting tool. And the third most used option is an oscillating cutting tool. There are benefits to each of these options that we will talk about in a bit. The most common use for PVC is low pressure water transportation. An example of this is using it in a sprinkler system like one used to water a lawn. But the versatility of PVC is endless, as it is also a commonly used material for many crafts and DIY projects. Protective Equipment Safety Glasses Gloves It’s important to make sure you use proper safety equipment when doing any type of physical work that has moving parts. Cutting PVC pipe is no different. There are a few places that you can get injured, so for that reason we use protective equipment to help limit any injuries. It’s the hands and eyes that are the main places that can take an injury from this project. That means the two pieces of protective equipment to use are safety goggles, and work gloves.  The safety goggles are important because several of the methods for cutting PVC will create burrs. It’s possible for these burrs to get in your eyes, so that’s why we wear safety goggles. Gloves are helpful because any of the methods used to cut PVC use sharp objects. We don’t want to risk cutting ourselves, so we wear gloves. They are also helpful with gripping the pipe during the cut. Tape Measure Felt Tip Marker The first step for making a cut is to know where it’s going to be. You are going to do this on pvc by using a tape measure and a felt tip marker like a sharpie.  Hold the tape measure to one side of the pipe, and pull it out past the length you want to make the piece. Make a small mark with the sharpie at the location it is supposed to be.  When you are cutting the pipe you want it to be as close to this mark as possible. Don’t leave too much extra space because you will need to make another cut. An even worse problem than this is if you cut the piece too small and need to start over. Try to be as accurate as possible. Best Methods For Cutting PVC Pipe Using Hand Tools Now it’s time to talk about the method of cutting the pipe. There are two main camps we put the tools for cutting PVC pipe in. The first are hand tools, and the second are power tools.  The main goal when cutting PVC is to make the cut straight. If you are cutting it to attach fittings on the end, you are allowed to be a few degrees off of 90, but not much. Let’s talk about some of the different hand tools we use to cut PVC pipe. Cutting PVC Pipe With Hand Tools There are various tools that are commonly used for cutting PVC pipe. The first grouping we will talk about are the different types of saws. After we go through the saws, we will take a look at one hand tool that specializes in cutting PVC pipe. The common feature for all of these saws here is they have small teeth. This is a feature that is used for a fine cut when working with wood, or is needed for cutting metal. A fine toothed blade is important for cutting PVC because if the teeth were larger like on a hand saw used for cutting wood it would catch on the pipe and possibly tear it rather than cut. The biggest downside for cutting with any of the saws listed below is you will need some space around the pipe to use the saw. Saws are used by pushing and pulling it back and forth. This means they require several inches to about a foot on either side of the pipe. This will not work very well if the pipe is in a tight spot like framed into a wall. Thankfully we have a solution for this predicament. Cutting PVC With A Hacksaw The hacksaw is a commonly used tool for homeowners to have in their tool box. Using it to cut PVC is one of the most popular uses. There are a few things to focus on when cutting a piece of PVC with a hacksaw. Hack Saw Hold The Pipe Steady Like cutting anything with a saw, PVC needs to be held stable in order to make the cut. The best way to do this is to lay it on a solid surface, and hold it with one hand. If you want to be sure the cut is going to be as accurate as possible another thing you can do is use clamps to hold it down.  How To Cut PVC Pipe Straight With A Saw A miter box is an open top box with several tracks (or grooves) that a handsaw fits in. The tracks are positioned in several commonly used angles, but in this case we are going to use the straight 90 deg angle.  Use one hand to hold the pipe inside the box, but located towards the front of it. The other hand will use the saw. Place the saw in the track

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Knowing how to cut PVC pipe the right way is a skill every homeowner should know. PVC has many uses around the house, other than the plumbing purposes it was designed for. Cutting PVC is much easier than you think. Read on to find out what the best way to cut PVC pipe is with the use you have in mind.

PVC pipe is a plastic pipe that is available in various sizes. It’s possible to cut it with a large variety of tools, and we will be discussing several of them in this article. There are three tools that are the most commonly used to cut PVC pipe. The number one tool is a hacksaw. Next is a ratcheting PVC pipe cutting tool. And the third most used option is an oscillating cutting tool. There are benefits to each of these options that we will talk about in a bit.

The most common use for PVC is low pressure water transportation. An example of this is using it in a sprinkler system like one used to water a lawn. But the versatility of PVC is endless, as it is also a commonly used material for many crafts and DIY projects.

Protective Equipment

It’s important to make sure you use proper safety equipment when doing any type of physical work that has moving parts. Cutting PVC pipe is no different. There are a few places that you can get injured, so for that reason we use protective equipment to help limit any injuries.

It’s the hands and eyes that are the main places that can take an injury from this project. That means the two pieces of protective equipment to use are safety goggles, and work gloves. 

The safety goggles are important because several of the methods for cutting PVC will create burrs. It’s possible for these burrs to get in your eyes, so that’s why we wear safety goggles.

Gloves are helpful because any of the methods used to cut PVC use sharp objects. We don’t want to risk cutting ourselves, so we wear gloves. They are also helpful with gripping the pipe during the cut.

The first step for making a cut is to know where it’s going to be. You are going to do this on pvc by using a tape measure and a felt tip marker like a sharpie. 

Hold the tape measure to one side of the pipe, and pull it out past the length you want to make the piece. Make a small mark with the sharpie at the location it is supposed to be. 

When you are cutting the pipe you want it to be as close to this mark as possible. Don’t leave too much extra space because you will need to make another cut. An even worse problem than this is if you cut the piece too small and need to start over. Try to be as accurate as possible.

Best Methods For Cutting PVC Pipe Using Hand Tools

Now it’s time to talk about the method of cutting the pipe. There are two main camps we put the tools for cutting PVC pipe in. The first are hand tools, and the second are power tools. 

The main goal when cutting PVC is to make the cut straight. If you are cutting it to attach fittings on the end, you are allowed to be a few degrees off of 90, but not much. Let’s talk about some of the different hand tools we use to cut PVC pipe.

Cutting PVC Pipe With Hand Tools

There are various tools that are commonly used for cutting PVC pipe. The first grouping we will talk about are the different types of saws. After we go through the saws, we will take a look at one hand tool that specializes in cutting PVC pipe.

The common feature for all of these saws here is they have small teeth. This is a feature that is used for a fine cut when working with wood, or is needed for cutting metal. A fine toothed blade is important for cutting PVC because if the teeth were larger like on a hand saw used for cutting wood it would catch on the pipe and possibly tear it rather than cut.

The biggest downside for cutting with any of the saws listed below is you will need some space around the pipe to use the saw. Saws are used by pushing and pulling it back and forth. This means they require several inches to about a foot on either side of the pipe. This will not work very well if the pipe is in a tight spot like framed into a wall. Thankfully we have a solution for this predicament.

Cutting PVC With A Hacksaw

Cutting PVC Pipe With Hacksaw

The hacksaw is a commonly used tool for homeowners to have in their tool box. Using it to cut PVC is one of the most popular uses. There are a few things to focus on when cutting a piece of PVC with a hacksaw.

Hold The Pipe Steady

Like cutting anything with a saw, PVC needs to be held stable in order to make the cut. The best way to do this is to lay it on a solid surface, and hold it with one hand. If you want to be sure the cut is going to be as accurate as possible another thing you can do is use clamps to hold it down. 

How To Cut PVC Pipe Straight With A Saw

A miter box is an open top box with several tracks (or grooves) that a handsaw fits in. The tracks are positioned in several commonly used angles, but in this case we are going to use the straight 90 deg angle. 

Use one hand to hold the pipe inside the box, but located towards the front of it. The other hand will use the saw. Place the saw in the track that is for a 90 degree cut and rest it on top of the pipe.

Pull the saw towards you and away from you while applying downward pressure on the pipe. You will get a feel for how much pressure is required as you make the cut. You may need to rotate the pipe periodically to have access to the uncut part of the pipe.

Using a Pipe Saw to Cut PVC Pipe

A pipe saw is a lot like a hacksaw. The big difference is the type of blade you use. The blade is more narrow with a hacksaw, and is attached to the saw at both ends of the blade.  The pipe saw blade is wider, and holds its shape without being attached to the handle on both sides of the blade.  

Use a pipe saw the same way as a hacksaw. Start by resting the saw blade on top of the pipe, and pull it towards you. Then push the blade away from you on the same mark. Do this over and over until it cuts all the way through the pipe.

A pipe saw can be used with a miter box to make a straight and accurate cut.

Using a Dovetail Saw to Cut PVC Pipe

A dovetail saw is a fine tooth saw used for woodworking. It’s a common saw that many homeowners have in their garage. The nice thing about using a dovetail saw to make a straight cut on PVC is it is a tool that works well with a miter box. 

The miter box makes it easy to hold the PVC still while you make a straight cut. It’s best if the miter box is attached to a surface like a workbench. Start by holding the pipe with the mark at the zero degree slot on the saw. This is the slot you are going to use to make your cut. You also want it to be tight against the wall of the box closest to you. 

Place the saw in the slots on the box you will be using. You want to make contact with the pipe at the heel of the saw. This will let you make a pull cut to get the cut started. Do this until you have a groove the saw blade fits in comfortably. 

Make a cutting motion with the saw until you have cut all the way through the pipe. Cutting a PVC pipe this way is an effective method of cutting PVC. The only down side is it will create some PVC shavings that need to be cleaned up afterwards. 

Using a Ratcheting Tool To Cut PVC Pipe

The ratcheting PVC tool is the best hand tool option for cutting PVC pipe in tight places. It works much like pliers where it grips from both sides of the pipe. The main difference is one of the sides is a knife-like blade that will cut through the PVC. The minimum amount of clearance is the width of the side of the tool that does not have the knife blade. As long as you can fit this side next to the pipe the tool will work.

To use this tool start by pulling the two ends of the handle apart. This will use a spring to open the jaws of the tool. Place the pipe on the curved side of the tool, and rest the blade on the mark you want to cut. Squeeze the handles until you can’t. Then loosen your grip where it can ratchet automatically. Repeat the process of squeezing and relaxing until the blade cuts completely through the pipe.

Aside from being able to work in tight places, there are a couple of other benefits to using this type of cutting tool. The second best benefit is it doesn’t produce any burrs. The blade cuts through the pipe, rather than removing material from the pipe the way saws do. 

Another benefit for using this tool is it makes a straight cut with ease. The final result is going to consistently be pretty close to 90 degrees. The straight blade makes the finished cut very clean.

Power Tools To Cut PVC Pipe

Power tools make light work of cutting PVC pipe. The fact that there is a motor means you are exerting very little energy. Just hold the tool up to the mark you want to cut and let the blade do the rest of the work.

Cutting PVC Pipe With An Oscillating Tool

The oscillating tool is a power tool that has many uses. There are a variety of blades you can attach, giving the tool a wide variety of uses. The oscillating tool can cut a lot of different material types, but cuts PVC quite easily. It can cut pipes in tight spaces because the blade doesn’t require much room to oscillate.

I recommend using a metal cutting blade, which has finer teeth, but a wood blade will work for this purpose as well. Hold the tool with two hands, and move it towards the mark you want to cut. 

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best way to cut PVC pipe?

The best way to cut pvc pipe is with the pvc pipe cutting tool. This is because it makes a straight cut when used right, and it leaves no shavings to make the cut. You are not removing any of the material, but rather you are slicing through it. These tools are simple to use as well.

Can you cut PVC pipe with a sawzall?

PVC pipe can be cut with a sawzall. It is a good option in a pinch if it is the only tool you have that will cut PVC. It is recommended to use a blade that is designed for cutting metal. This is because they have fine teeth that will be able to make a clean cut. You also want to get a blade that is several inches longer than the thickness of the PVC pipe. I would look at an 8 to 12 inch blade for this type of cut.

Do you need a special blade to cut PVC pipe?

You do not need a special blade to cut PVC pipe. As you can see from the article above there are several types of tools that will cut PVC pipe. What matters more is that you have the tool that works for this job, but also know how to use it well.

Does PVC need to be cut straight?

PVC does not need a perfectly straight cut. If you are fitting connections onto your pipe, you have a few degrees of leeway with the angle of your cut before it becomes a problem. This is usually around half an inch before it becomes a problem when gluing it up.

Can you cut PVC with a utility knife?

PVC can technically be cut with a utility knife. This can be a hard task because the blade of the knife is not very wide compared to the width of the pipe being cut. There is also a large amount of force required to cut through a material as dense as PVC pipe.

Conclusion

There are many ways to cut PVC. Each method listed in this article will get you to the same goal. If you are cutting PVC pipe to attach fittings, the best method is the ratcheting PVC pipe cutter. But all methods listed here will work.

I hope this article helped you find the best method of cutting PVC pipe for you. Here at Remodel Upgrade I am dedicated to bringing you the best tips and tools to turn your home into your castle. Check out the other articles in this blog for more great tips that will help you love your home!

Happy Remodeling,

Kevin

Kevin

I grew up in a family where my dad and several uncles were general contractors. They took me to the jobsites, and also taught me so much about home maintenance. I remember spending several summers in high school helping my father build houses. It gave me so much knowledge that I am excited to share!

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How To Install A Toilet By Yourself https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-install-a-toilet-by-yourself/ https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-install-a-toilet-by-yourself/#respond Thu, 19 Dec 2024 09:04:18 +0000 https://remodelupgrade.com/?p=4748 Learning how to install a toilet is not difficult. You don’t need any special tools beyond what you probably already own. This is a single person job that takes under an hour to finish. Take a look below for a list of tools, and the complete steps to successfully install a new toilet.  Some toilet installs do not require all the tools below. This is dependent on what toilet installation kit you are using. Some kits require a hacksaw to cut the bolts that secure the bowl to the flange. Jump to the Secure the Toilet section below to see if you need a hacksaw.  You may also need to replace the supply line (the water line that connects the toilet to the water valve on the wall. If your supply line is deteriorating a great deal you may want to buy a new one for this installation. You want it to be the same length as the one you have now. Measure the size of the connection attached to the valve on the wall, and talk to the people at the hardware store for help finding the exact one. Most times the existing one is fine to use again. We both know the best accessory for a toilet is a bathroom exhaust fan. If you are in the market for a bathroom fan i recommend visiting the article on The Best Bathroom Exhaust Fan will walk you through the steps on picking the right fan for your bathroom.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbMmGao_0Ug How To Install A Toilet Step-By-Step The steps listed below will guide you through the process of removing the old toilet and installing the new one. I have a video for you to check out if that’s an easier way for you to learn how to do this type of project. The video has the same steps outlined in this article. Click on the video above for that tutorial. The most important thing to remember during this process is to not overtighten any of the bolts during this project. You will be working with porcelain which is susceptible to cracking if too much pressure is put on it. The amount of tightening should be up to where the bowl, tank, or seat does not wobble. Once you get to this point you can stop tightening. Shut Off The Water Supply To The Toilet I like to start this job by putting on rubber gloves. It makes me feel more comfortable when working with a used toilet to start by wearing gloves. Make sure you have extras handy and they are the right size because they may break during the process of this job.  The water supply line is a water valve that sticks out of the wall near the ground. It’s usually somewhere behind the toilet to the left of it. Turn the valve to the right until you can’t turn it any more.  You will need to get on your knees to find it. Remove Old Toilet Removal of the old toilet happens in a series of steps. With the water shut off you can flush the toilet to remove the water from the tank. There will still be some water in the bowl that can spill out when carrying it. This is why we use the garbage bag. Loosen the bolts at the base of the toilet. There is one bolt sticking up on either side of the bowl near the floor. Oftentimes there is a smooth cap covering the bolt. You can use the putty knife or the flat screwdriver to pry the caps off.  Once the caps are off use the crescent wrench or the channellock pliers to loosen and remove the nuts. Take the nuts and washers off. Once the nuts are off, the toilet is free and loose from the floor. Open up the garbage bag and place it on the floor next to the toilet. When you lift the toilet straight up and off the bolts, place it on the garbage bag so any spills go in there and not all over the house. We use the contractor garbage bag for this because usually the kitchen garbage bags are too small to fit the toilet. If the toilet is too heavy to lift alone, you may want to get someone else to help you lift it. If you don’t have someone to help you, remove the tank from the bowl. This can only happen if you have a two piece toilet. You may need to lay on the floor to loosen the tank from the bowl.  To remove the tank there are some plastic bolts that connect the tank to the bowl. Loosen the nuts with the channellock pliers. This can be brought directly outside when it is removed. Remove the Old Wax Ring The wax ring is used to prevent any sewer gasses from filling up the bathroom and causing a nasty smell in the house. It’s important to remove as much of the old wax ring before we can place the new one.  Use the putty knife to scrape the wax off the flange. Any pieces of wax that are removed can be put in a disposable bag. A shopping bag is the perfect size for this stage of the job. Some wax rings have a funnel shaped gasket that faces downward into the toilet flange. This gasket needs to be removed from the flange along with the majority of old wax. Not all wax rings have this part. You won’t be able to get every last bit of wax off the flange, but do your best to scrape as much off the flange as possible. The toilet flange is the circular hole that is in the floor of the bathroom. It’s the hole that the water goes down when the toilet gets flushed.  Disclaimer: Do your best to not drop anything down the flange hole, including chunks of wax. You may want to stuff a large rag in the

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Learning how to install a toilet is not difficult. You don’t need any special tools beyond what you probably already own. This is a single person job that takes under an hour to finish. Take a look below for a list of tools, and the complete steps to successfully install a new toilet. 

Some toilet installs do not require all the tools below. This is dependent on what toilet installation kit you are using. Some kits require a hacksaw to cut the bolts that secure the bowl to the flange. Jump to the Secure the Toilet section below to see if you need a hacksaw. 

You may also need to replace the supply line (the water line that connects the toilet to the water valve on the wall. If your supply line is deteriorating a great deal you may want to buy a new one for this installation. You want it to be the same length as the one you have now. Measure the size of the connection attached to the valve on the wall, and talk to the people at the hardware store for help finding the exact one. Most times the existing one is fine to use again.

We both know the best accessory for a toilet is a bathroom exhaust fan. If you are in the market for a bathroom fan i recommend visiting the article on The Best Bathroom Exhaust Fan will walk you through the steps on picking the right fan for your bathroom. 

How To Install A Toilet Step-By-Step

The steps listed below will guide you through the process of removing the old toilet and installing the new one. I have a video for you to check out if that’s an easier way for you to learn how to do this type of project. The video has the same steps outlined in this article. Click on the video above for that tutorial.

The most important thing to remember during this process is to not overtighten any of the bolts during this project. You will be working with porcelain which is susceptible to cracking if too much pressure is put on it. The amount of tightening should be up to where the bowl, tank, or seat does not wobble. Once you get to this point you can stop tightening.

Shut Off The Water Supply To The Toilet

Toilet Supply Line

I like to start this job by putting on rubber gloves. It makes me feel more comfortable when working with a used toilet to start by wearing gloves. Make sure you have extras handy and they are the right size because they may break during the process of this job. 

The water supply line is a water valve that sticks out of the wall near the ground. It’s usually somewhere behind the toilet to the left of it. Turn the valve to the right until you can’t turn it any more.  You will need to get on your knees to find it.

Remove Old Toilet

Remove old toilet

Removal of the old toilet happens in a series of steps. With the water shut off you can flush the toilet to remove the water from the tank. There will still be some water in the bowl that can spill out when carrying it. This is why we use the garbage bag.

Loosen the bolts at the base of the toilet. There is one bolt sticking up on either side of the bowl near the floor. Oftentimes there is a smooth cap covering the bolt. You can use the putty knife or the flat screwdriver to pry the caps off. 

Once the caps are off use the crescent wrench or the channellock pliers to loosen and remove the nuts. Take the nuts and washers off.

Once the nuts are off, the toilet is free and loose from the floor. Open up the garbage bag and place it on the floor next to the toilet. When you lift the toilet straight up and off the bolts, place it on the garbage bag so any spills go in there and not all over the house. We use the contractor garbage bag for this because usually the kitchen garbage bags are too small to fit the toilet.

If the toilet is too heavy to lift alone, you may want to get someone else to help you lift it. If you don’t have someone to help you, remove the tank from the bowl. This can only happen if you have a two piece toilet. You may need to lay on the floor to loosen the tank from the bowl. 

To remove the tank there are some plastic bolts that connect the tank to the bowl. Loosen the nuts with the channellock pliers. This can be brought directly outside when it is removed.

Remove the Old Wax Ring

The wax ring is used to prevent any sewer gasses from filling up the bathroom and causing a nasty smell in the house. It’s important to remove as much of the old wax ring before we can place the new one. 

Use the putty knife to scrape the wax off the flange. Any pieces of wax that are removed can be put in a disposable bag. A shopping bag is the perfect size for this stage of the job.

Some wax rings have a funnel shaped gasket that faces downward into the toilet flange. This gasket needs to be removed from the flange along with the majority of old wax. Not all wax rings have this part.

You won’t be able to get every last bit of wax off the flange, but do your best to scrape as much off the flange as possible. The toilet flange is the circular hole that is in the floor of the bathroom. It’s the hole that the water goes down when the toilet gets flushed. 

Disclaimer: Do your best to not drop anything down the flange hole, including chunks of wax. You may want to stuff a large rag in the opening of the flange while you do this work. Make sure you remove the rag before you place the new toilet. 

Install the New Wax Ring

New toilet wax ring

After the old wax ring is fully removed you can place the new wax ring on the flange. Start by removing all packaging from the wax ring. This includes the donut shaped plastic trough it was poured into. 

You should be left with only wax, and possibly the funnel shaped gasket (if this wax ring comes with one).

Assemble the Toilet

Assembling a toilet

This can be done as you install the toilet in the next step, or the toilet can be built and then installed where it’s supposed to go. I have found it is easier to put the tank and bowl together before putting it in place. The tank and toilet are a bit more heavy when in one piece, so if this is a problem it’s possibly better for you to install the toilet in pieces or to ask a friend to help you move it. 

The first step of assembling the toilet is to install the valve kit in the tank. The bottom piece of the valve should stick through the hole in the bottom of the tank. Use the large accompanying nut to secure it in place. The channel locks will tighten this nut enough. You don’t need to crank it down too hard. This nut is what will need to be removed if you ever have to change the valve in the future.

secure the rubber gasket at the base of the tank. There is a plastic piece on the hole at the base of the tank. The rubber gasket slides on the outside of the plastic piece, making a protective cushion when the tank fits onto the bowl. 

After this rubber gasket is in place you can connect the tank to the bowl. There are rubber washers that fit onto the metal bolts. The rubber washer will make a watertight seal on the inside of the tank.

Place the tank on the bowl. With the washers slid up to the head of the bolts, slide them through the two holes that line up between the tank and the bowl. This should happen from inside the tank going downward to the underside of the bowl. 

There are plastic nuts and plastic washers that are slid up and secured from the underside of the bowl. Tighten these equally and securely so the tank doesn’t wobble. DON’T OVER TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS!

Install the Toilet

installing a new toilet

At this point you have the wax ring in place. You are ready to install the toilet over the flange. The flange has two slots, one on each side. There are two bolts that came with the wax ring that have a “T” shaped head. 

Hold the bolts with the head facing down, and slide them into the two slots on either side of the flange. It’s good to have the heads facing in a parallel fashion. This will ensure they don’t slip as easily.

Some wax ring kits come with a clear washer that is designed to secure the bolts so they don’t move while you place the toilet. If your kit has this washer you can slide it down the bolts all the way. If you don’t have them that’s okay too.

With the bolts facing up in the flange you can put the toilet in place. As you lift the toilet you want to lift straight up and lower it straight down. It’s important to keep the holes lined up with the bolts, minimizing the risk that they move out of place.

It’s important to lower the toilet in the right placement, and not slide it around when it’s contacting the wax ring. The wax ring needs to encircle the hole at the base of the bowl completely. If it slips out of place this can cause sewer gasses to enter your bathroom.

Secure the Toilet

After you lower the toilet onto the wax ring, one bolt should be sticking up from each hole. Put your weight down on the bowl evenly to help the toilet seat closer to the floor. This is helping the underside of the bowl to press the wax ring, and disperse it evenly around the base of the toilet. After the toilet is seated well you can begin tightening the bolts.

There should be a washer, nut and a white cap. Usually the washer snaps into the cap when it’s installed, keeping the cap in place. Place the washer on with the correct orientation to where it can snap into the cap. This means have it flat side up, with the edges tapering inwards.

After the washers are on, you can screw the nuts down. Tighten them with the crescent wrench. Make them tight enough to keep the bowl from wobbling when you are sitting, but not much more than that. If the bolts are tightened too much it can crack the porcelain and the entire toilet will be ruined. 

After the nuts are tightened, you can pop the caps on. Some bolts need to be cut before you can put the caps on. These are bolts that have collar marks at several locations on the threads. Cut at the first mark above the nuts. You can use the hacksaw for this. If you don’t have these types of bolts in your kit you will not need a hacksaw in this installation. 

Attach the Water Supply Line

Attach the water supply line to toilet

The water supply line can now be screwed on to the new toilet tank. Before you install it make sure there is a rubber washer inside the connection on the supply line. If it’s not there, and you are using the existing supply line it may still be stuck on the old toilet. Also wrap a layer of teflon tape around the threads coming out of the bottom of the tank where the supply line will be screwed on.

Hand tighten the supply line, and then tighten a little more with the channellock pliers. When it is well tightened you can turn the water back on. Turn the valve all the way so the water is flowing completely. Give the toilet a flush to make sure everything in the tank is working correctly.

Test for Leaks

Once the water is on you can check for leaks. Look at all the connection points on the toilet. You may need to dry them off with a rag because there is probably some water. Feel these spots with your bare hand to see if there are any water leaks. 

If there are leaks, you may simply need to make it a bit tighter at that location. If it isn’t leaking, the toilet is almost done. 

How To Install the Toilet Seat

There are two clear plastic pieces that fit around each bolt hole in the seat. Stick them on the bottom of the connection points where the seat contacts the bowl. Open the cap to put the plastic screws through. 

The plastic screws slide down through the top of the connection spots on the seat. When they are both going through the seat and the bowl you can put the washer and the nut on the bolt.

It’s probably easier to stack the washer and the nut together in the orientation they are going to attach to the bolt. Tighten them down by hand until they are both completely seated on the underside of the toilet bowl. 

Use the channellock pliers to hold the nut under the bowl. The flat screwdriver can tighten the bolt from the top. Tighten each bolt evenly. You also want to make sure the seat is lined up correctly as you tighten each side. If it gets out of alignment you can loosen one or both bolts enough to straighten it out. 

The seat should be tight enough that it doesn’t slip when you sit on it. Check this by trying to slide it left or right lightly. If it doesn’t move it should be tight enough.

Place the Toilet Tank Lid

attaching flush mechanism to toilet tank lid

The toilet tank lid can be placed on the tank. If your toilet is one that has a flush mechanism that’s on the lid, you can install that now.

To do this put the lid on the tank, and line up the mechanism in the orientation it should be in. lift the two of them together and flip it upside down. Place the washer-like piece on first, and then the nut. Tighten this nut by hand. You probably don’t need to use any tool to tighten it more.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install a toilet myself?

Installing a toilet does not require any specialty tools. The tools that are required are ones the average homeowner has already. Removing the old toilet and installing a new one can be done by one person.

There are a couple of places in the process that may benefit by having another set of hands to help. There are alternative solutions that can aid in someone who is installing the toilet alone. These steps are outlined in the process listed above.

Is it difficult to install a toilet?

It is not difficult to install a toilet. There are no parts of the process that are extremely difficult to understand. However it is a detailed process that may seem confusing with what the proper order of the project is. See the above article for this process. There is also a video above that shows the process as well.

What is the labor cost to install a toilet?

The labor cost of a toilet installation by a professional is typically between $100 and $300. This does not include the price of the toilet. 

If you are interested in finding a contractor that can help you with this project, get your copy of The Contractor Search Guide. It will walk you through the steps of how to find, interview and hire a contractor.

Conclusion

Installing a toilet is something the average homeowner can do themselves. It is a project that doesn’t take long, and doesn’t require any specialty tools. The process may seem overwhelming, but shouldn’t be. Just follow the above process and you will be fine. It is such a sense of accomplishment after you check this project off your list. Plus you can keep the money you would have spent on a contractor to help.

Happy Renovating,

Kevin

Kevin

I grew up in a family where my dad and several uncles were general contractors. They took me to the jobsites, and also taught me so much about home maintenance. I remember spending several summers in high school helping my father build houses. It gave me so much knowledge that I am excited to share!

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How To Reset A Circuit Breaker https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-reset-a-circuit-breaker/ https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-reset-a-circuit-breaker/#respond Wed, 18 Dec 2024 04:20:24 +0000 https://remodelupgrade.com/?p=4603 Knowing how to reset a circuit breaker is a valuable skill to have. It is not difficult, and can be done quickly. It can be dangerous if not done correctly. Follow the steps below to reset your circuit breaker the right way. Causes Of A Tripped Breaker Before dealing with the breaker box, it is important to understand what caused the problem in the first place. The breaker box is the location that the main electricity supply has come into the house. This supply is then divided up to various circuits around the house. This is to reduce the total electric flow going through the outlets and light fixtures, making it safer for us when using them.    We say a circuit is “tripped” when it has been overloaded and no longer has power going to it. The breaker is designed to switch off, or “trip” before the electricity in the wires gets to a dangerous level.   One way a circuit trips is when a GFCI outlet overloads and switches to the off position. If this happens, every other light and outlet on the same circuit after the GFCI will be turned off as well. You want to switch the outlet back on to regain power to these locations.  GFCI Outlet Ground fault circuit interrupter or GFCI outlets are electrical outlets that are designed to be placed in proximity to water. It is recommended to have one of these outlets within 18 inches of a water source like a sink faucet.   These outlets will trip, or switch to the “off” position when they are shorted or overloaded. You can push the reset button on the outlet to switch it back to the “on position. If it is not turning back on you may need to switch the breaker back on at the breaker box. How To Reset A Tripped Circuit Breaker Resetting a tripped circuit breaker is a simple process. If it tripped after you turned on a light or appliance, you want to unplug it or turn it off before switching the breaker back on. This is because you may run into the same problem of the circuit being overloaded after you switch it on.   Go to the circuit panel. This is usually in the garage, but may be in another location. It should be somewhere that is easily accessed.    There is also a chance of there being a subpanel which is separate from the main circuit panel. The subpanel looks similar to the main circuit panel, but generally smaller. The circuits in this panel are the same type as the main, and are checked the same way.   Open the circuit panel, and look for a circuit that is “tripped”. This is indicated by the switch on the circuit that is in a different position than the rest. When they are in the “on” position they are facing the center of the panel. When they are tripped they are facing straight out. The “off” position is facing to the side of the panel.   If it’s hard to tell which breaker is tripped, it’s okay to lightly push on them in the “on” direction. The ones that are not tripped will not move. The one that has been tripped will have a bit of movement, but will spring back into the center.    Once you find the one that is tripped you want to flip it to the off position (towards the side of the panel). This will reset it. Now flip it to the on position. Congratulations, you reset a circuit breaker. Tripped Circuit Breaker Won’t Reset There is a chance the tripped circuit breaker won’t reset. If after you switch it to the on position it trips again you have a bigger issue. This can be caused by one of several problems that is happening.    If you are a novice when it comes to electrical work I recommend seeking professional help. Electrical is not something you want to mess around with if you don’t know what you are doing.    I put together a guide that will help you find a reliable contractor. This guide tells you what interview questions to ask once you found a potential candidate. It lets you know what their answers mean, and who you should avoid. And once you find the person you want to use it helps you draft up a contract to help protect yourself.   It’s called The Contractor Search Guide. Check it out by clicking the image. How To Reset A Breaker In An Apartment Resetting a circuit breaker in an apartment is similar to the steps listed above. Hopefully you know where the circuit breaker is. It may be in a closet, or somewhere else hidden. This is a good thing to know where it is once you find it.  Frequently Asked Questions How do you know if a breaker needs to be reset? The first sign that you will need to reset a circuit breaker is there is no power going to something you have plugged in. This could be a light, your cellphone, or a major appliance.    Once you get to the breaker box, the first way to tell which circuit breaker is tripped is when the switch on one of them is facing the center position, when the others are all aimed at either the left or right position. You can push on this one in the direction the others are facing, and you will feel a spring like resistance. This means it is time to go through the process described above to reset it. What happens if a circuit breaker won’t reset? There are several reasons why a circuit won’t reset. The first one you want to consider is if there are any GFCI outlets on the circuit. If so, this outlet may be the culprit for why the power is not turning back on after resetting the breaker.   There also may be the

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Knowing how to reset a circuit breaker is a valuable skill to have. It is not difficult, and can be done quickly. It can be dangerous if not done correctly. Follow the steps below to reset your circuit breaker the right way.

Causes Of A Tripped Breaker

Before dealing with the breaker box, it is important to understand what caused the problem in the first place. The breaker box is the location that the main electricity supply has come into the house. This supply is then divided up to various circuits around the house. This is to reduce the total electric flow going through the outlets and light fixtures, making it safer for us when using them. 

 

We say a circuit is “tripped” when it has been overloaded and no longer has power going to it. The breaker is designed to switch off, or “trip” before the electricity in the wires gets to a dangerous level.

 

One way a circuit trips is when a GFCI outlet overloads and switches to the off position. If this happens, every other light and outlet on the same circuit after the GFCI will be turned off as well. You want to switch the outlet back on to regain power to these locations. 

Ground fault circuit interrupter or GFCI outlets are electrical outlets that are designed to be placed in proximity to water. It is recommended to have one of these outlets within 18 inches of a water source like a sink faucet.

 

These outlets will trip, or switch to the “off” position when they are shorted or overloaded. You can push the reset button on the outlet to switch it back to the “on position. If it is not turning back on you may need to switch the breaker back on at the breaker box.

How To Reset A Tripped Circuit Breaker

Resetting a tripped circuit breaker is a simple process. If it tripped after you turned on a light or appliance, you want to unplug it or turn it off before switching the breaker back on. This is because you may run into the same problem of the circuit being overloaded after you switch it on.

 

Go to the circuit panel. This is usually in the garage, but may be in another location. It should be somewhere that is easily accessed. 

 

There is also a chance of there being a subpanel which is separate from the main circuit panel. The subpanel looks similar to the main circuit panel, but generally smaller. The circuits in this panel are the same type as the main, and are checked the same way.

 

Open the circuit panel, and look for a circuit that is “tripped”. This is indicated by the switch on the circuit that is in a different position than the rest. When they are in the “on” position they are facing the center of the panel. When they are tripped they are facing straight out. The “off” position is facing to the side of the panel.

 

If it’s hard to tell which breaker is tripped, it’s okay to lightly push on them in the “on” direction. The ones that are not tripped will not move. The one that has been tripped will have a bit of movement, but will spring back into the center. 

 

Once you find the one that is tripped you want to flip it to the off position (towards the side of the panel). This will reset it. Now flip it to the on position. Congratulations, you reset a circuit breaker.

Tripped Circuit Breaker Won’t Reset

There is a chance the tripped circuit breaker won’t reset. If after you switch it to the on position it trips again you have a bigger issue. This can be caused by one of several problems that is happening. 

 

If you are a novice when it comes to electrical work I recommend seeking professional help. Electrical is not something you want to mess around with if you don’t know what you are doing. 

 

I put together a guide that will help you find a reliable contractor. This guide tells you what interview questions to ask once you found a potential candidate. It lets you know what their answers mean, and who you should avoid. And once you find the person you want to use it helps you draft up a contract to help protect yourself.

 

It’s called The Contractor Search Guide. Check it out by clicking the image.

How To Reset A Breaker In An Apartment

Resetting a circuit breaker in an apartment is similar to the steps listed above. Hopefully you know where the circuit breaker is. It may be in a closet, or somewhere else hidden. This is a good thing to know where it is once you find it. 

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you know if a breaker needs to be reset?

The first sign that you will need to reset a circuit breaker is there is no power going to something you have plugged in. This could be a light, your cellphone, or a major appliance. 

 

Once you get to the breaker box, the first way to tell which circuit breaker is tripped is when the switch on one of them is facing the center position, when the others are all aimed at either the left or right position. You can push on this one in the direction the others are facing, and you will feel a spring like resistance. This means it is time to go through the process described above to reset it.

What happens if a circuit breaker won’t reset?

There are several reasons why a circuit won’t reset. The first one you want to consider is if there are any GFCI outlets on the circuit. If so, this outlet may be the culprit for why the power is not turning back on after resetting the breaker.

 

There also may be the situation that the breaker itself has gone bad. If this is the case you are going to want to get a professional electrician to take a look at the breaker. He or she can make the determination on whether you want to replace the breaker.

 

Another scenario to consider is if the circuit is still overloaded. There is the chance that you are drawing too much power with the appliances, lights, etc being in the “on” position. This can be remedied by turning them off, or unplugging them before flipping the breaker back on.

Is it safe to reset a tripped circuit breaker?

It is safe for you to reset a circuit breaker. You want to be careful when you do so, because you are dealing with a high amount of electricity. Make sure your hands are not wet, and you are not standing in a puddle. If so, you want to dry off and clean up the water before dealing with the circuit breakers.

Is flipping breakers dangerous?

Flipping circuit breakers is not dangerous in most situations. The panel has a protective cover on it that keeps the breakers in place, and keeps your hands away from the electricity. DO NOT flip the breakers if this cover is removed. This can be very dangerous. You want to secure the cover on the panel before you flip the breakers.

Do you have to reset the breaker after a power outage?

Power outages do not trip the breakers. For this reason you will not need to reset the breaker after a power outage.

The steps in this article cover the entire process of resetting a circuit breaker. If the breaker will not reset itself after you follow the steps you want to find a professional electrician to help you. Electricity can be very dangerous if not used properly.

 

I hope this article was what you are looking for. If you liked the information here, please check out my other articles. Here at Remodel Upgrade I am dedicated to help you love your home.

 

Happy Renovating,

Kevin

Kevin

I grew up in a family where my dad and several uncles were general contractors. They took me to the jobsites, and also taught me so much about home maintenance. I remember spending several summers in high school helping my father build houses. It gave me so much knowledge that I am excited to share!

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How To Install A Bathroom Fan Where One Doesn’t Exist https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-install-a-bathroom-fan-where-one-doesnt-exist-yet/ https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-install-a-bathroom-fan-where-one-doesnt-exist-yet/#respond Tue, 17 Dec 2024 19:23:55 +0000 http://remodelupgrade.com/?p=4568 Installing a bathroom fan where one doesn’t exist can be a major improvement in a bathroom. This project can be completed in a short period of time. But major problems can happen if you cut corners. This article will show you exactly how to install a bathroom fan where one doesn’t exist.  Disclaimer: This project involves working with electricity,  which can be dangerous if not done correctly. If you are uncomfortable with this type of work I recommend seeking help from a professional. If you are handy with tools this project won’t be hard for you to complete. On average this job is around 1-2 hours. It’s best to do it all at once because the power will be turned off to your bathroom while you are working.Here is a list of the required equipment and tools for the job. Equipment Bathroom Fan Ducting Vent Cover Pipe Clamp Tools Electric Drill Drillbit Extension Drill Bits Multi Screwdriver Hole Saw Drywall Saw Drywall Saw Will Adding A Fan Overload The Electrical Circuit? There are ways to tell if the circuit is safe to add a bathroom fan. This is important to know because you don’t want the circuit to trip every time you turn the fan on.  This article does not cover the process of checking the circuit’s load capacity. A certified electrician can help you with this if needed. Steps For Adding A Bathroom Exhaust Fan Below are the main steps to installing a bathroom fan. They don’t need to be done in this order, but all these steps need to be completed in order for it to be completed properly. And one of the steps cant be done without preceding another step.  Choosing the placement Attaching the vent properly Installing the electrical Securing the fan in place How To Choose The Bathroom Fans Placement There are a few factors that go into choosing the fan’s placement. Below are some of the key factors that go into mounting and running the duct. The consideration of running the power to the fan will be covered in the “Installing The Electrical” section below.  The fan needs to be secured to a joist in the ceiling. Joists are pieces of lumber that run parallel to each other, that the sheet rock on the ceiling is secured to. One of the edges of the fan box will be flush against the edge of a joist for securement.   Use a stud finder to find a joist that is relatively close to where you want the fan to be. The joists should be running in the direction of an exterior wall to help with future steps. You will run the vent in that direction without drilling through the joists.    You want the fan to be somewhat in the middle of the bathroom. This generally looks good because its more symmetrical.    Placing it closer to the toilet or the shower will assist in moving unwanted air out of the bathroom quickly. Don’t place it tight against one of the walls because this will be worse for airflow.   If your fan has a light, keep that in mind when deciding on a location. You may want to have it slightly closer to the sink to cast the extra light in that area.    It helps with the installation process if you place it close to an arms length from the exterior wall. But this isn’t set in stone because there are drill extensions that can help with a future step if needed.    Hold the vent box up to the ceiling where you want the fan to go. Make sure one edge of the box is touching a joist before you trace its border with a pencil.   Use a drywall saw to cut the opening for the fan. You want to have your safety glasses on and a dust mask for this part. There will be quite a bit of drywall dust that will fall. Run The Vent Duct Once you have a hole cut in the ceiling, you now have access to work in the ceiling cavity.   Find the location the duct will vent outside. Get on a ladder and peek inside the opening to see what you are working with. Find a spot that is roughly equal distance from the top and bottom on the exterior wall.    Drill with a pilot hole in the exterior wall midway between the top and bottom of the cavity. You may need an extender on your drill, depending on how far your opening is from the wall. I am using a one foot drill extension for this part of the project.   Once you have a pilot hole you can take the drill outside. Here you will use the four inch hole saw to make a larger opening.    Use the pilot hole to guide your drill placement. Once this hole is completed you can move to the next step.  Install The Electricity The fan will need its own designated switch to be hooked up to. Some fans have extra features that can be used by other switches. If your fan is one of these you may want to consider a switch that has multiple functions on it.   We covered fan placement above. But there is one thing to consider on the fan’s placement when considering the electricity. The electrical wire will need to be run from the switch to the fan. It’s easiest if the fan is in direct alignment between the joists with the switch. But you still can mount the fan where you want it even if it’s not lined up with the switch.   Any joist will need a small hole drilled through it for the wire. To do this you will need to cut a hole in the drywall near the joist. Usually this is done with a hole saw. I recommend a 4 inch one, because this is the same bit that is used for

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Installing a bathroom fan where one doesn’t exist can be a major improvement in a bathroom. This project can be completed in a short period of time. But major problems can happen if you cut corners. This article will show you exactly how to install a bathroom fan where one doesn’t exist. 

Disclaimer: This project involves working with electricity,  which can be dangerous if not done correctly. If you are uncomfortable with this type of work I recommend seeking help from a professional.

If you are handy with tools this project won’t be hard for you to complete. On average this job is around 1-2 hours. It’s best to do it all at once because the power will be turned off to your bathroom while you are working.Here is a list of the required equipment and tools for the job.

Equipment

Bathroom Fan

Tools

Drywall Saw

Will Adding A Fan Overload The Electrical Circuit?

There are ways to tell if the circuit is safe to add a bathroom fan. This is important to know because you don’t want the circuit to trip every time you turn the fan on. 

This article does not cover the process of checking the circuit’s load capacity. A certified electrician can help you with this if needed.

Steps For Adding A Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Below are the main steps to installing a bathroom fan. They don’t need to be done in this order, but all these steps need to be completed in order for it to be completed properly. And one of the steps cant be done without preceding another step. 

How To Choose The Bathroom Fans Placement

Cutting a hole for ceiling fan

There are a few factors that go into choosing the fan’s placement. Below are some of the key factors that go into mounting and running the duct. The consideration of running the power to the fan will be covered in the “Installing The Electrical” section below. 

The fan needs to be secured to a joist in the ceiling. Joists are pieces of lumber that run parallel to each other, that the sheet rock on the ceiling is secured to. One of the edges of the fan box will be flush against the edge of a joist for securement.

 

Use a stud finder to find a joist that is relatively close to where you want the fan to be. The joists should be running in the direction of an exterior wall to help with future steps. You will run the vent in that direction without drilling through the joists. 

 

You want the fan to be somewhat in the middle of the bathroom. This generally looks good because its more symmetrical. 

 

Placing it closer to the toilet or the shower will assist in moving unwanted air out of the bathroom quickly. Don’t place it tight against one of the walls because this will be worse for airflow.

 

If your fan has a light, keep that in mind when deciding on a location. You may want to have it slightly closer to the sink to cast the extra light in that area. 

 

It helps with the installation process if you place it close to an arms length from the exterior wall. But this isn’t set in stone because there are drill extensions that can help with a future step if needed. 

 

Hold the vent box up to the ceiling where you want the fan to go. Make sure one edge of the box is touching a joist before you trace its border with a pencil.

 

Use a drywall saw to cut the opening for the fan. You want to have your safety glasses on and a dust mask for this part. There will be quite a bit of drywall dust that will fall.

Bathroom Fan Vent

Run The Vent Duct

Once you have a hole cut in the ceiling, you now have access to work in the ceiling cavity.

 

Find the location the duct will vent outside. Get on a ladder and peek inside the opening to see what you are working with. Find a spot that is roughly equal distance from the top and bottom on the exterior wall. 

 

Drill with a pilot hole in the exterior wall midway between the top and bottom of the cavity. You may need an extender on your drill, depending on how far your opening is from the wall. I am using a one foot drill extension for this part of the project.

 

Once you have a pilot hole you can take the drill outside. Here you will use the four inch hole saw to make a larger opening. 

 

Use the pilot hole to guide your drill placement. Once this hole is completed you can move to the next step. 

Install The Electricity

Installing Electricity bathroom fan

The fan will need its own designated switch to be hooked up to. Some fans have extra features that can be used by other switches. If your fan is one of these you may want to consider a switch that has multiple functions on it.

 

We covered fan placement above. But there is one thing to consider on the fan’s placement when considering the electricity. The electrical wire will need to be run from the switch to the fan. It’s easiest if the fan is in direct alignment between the joists with the switch. But you still can mount the fan where you want it even if it’s not lined up with the switch.

 

Any joist will need a small hole drilled through it for the wire. To do this you will need to cut a hole in the drywall near the joist. Usually this is done with a hole saw. I recommend a 4 inch one, because this is the same bit that is used for running the ductwork outside.

 

Connecting the electrical to the neighboring switch will give you power to the fan. This must be done in a specific manner, and this article will not cover this method. Working with electricity can be dangerous, and I recommend that if you are not comfortable with it you should reach out to a certified electrician.

 

Your fan comes with instructions on how to wire it up. Follow these instructions to safely and accurately wire the fan and get electricity to it. 

Mounting The Fan

Mounting a bathroom fan

At this point you have a hole cut in the ceiling where the fan will go. The ductwork is connected from the fan to the exterior of your home. And the electricity is connected to the fan correctly. Now it’s time to mount the fan. 

 

You will use a few wood screws and your drill to secure the fan in place. The screws should be at least one inch long, but don’t need to be much longer than that. It doesn’t matter exactly what size you use, as long as they fit through the mounting holes in the fan. Usually a size 6 or 8 screw will work well. I would go with one that is around  1-½ inches long. 

 

Hold the box firmly against the joist, and line it up directly above the hole in the ceiling. The box should be flush with the bottom of the sheet rock. You don’t want it to hang down below the sheet rock where it’s in the bathroom. If it’s about an eighth to a quarter inch above the bottom of the sheet rock this will make the cover plate fit well without any gaps on it.

 

Once you have the box in the right position, you will drill one of the screws through a mounting hole and into the joist. Make sure this screw is secured well where you can let go of the box. Now put a few more screws into other holes so the fan is secured well.

 

Sometimes the mounting holes are in tight places. You may need to use a drill extension to get the screw into a tight spot like this.

 

After you have 3 to 4 screws in there, you can put the cover plate on. If your fan has a light on it this will need to be connected first. Do this by connecting the wires the same way you disconnected them in the beginning. 

 

There are two wire “springs”, one on each side of the cover plate. You want to squeeze both together to fit them into the slots on either side of the fan box. These will pull the cover plate up tight to the ceiling drywall. If this is confusing, you can find a more clear example of this in the fan’s instruction manual.

How To Install a Bathroom Fan Without Attic Access

Some bathrooms don’t have an attic above to work in. Perhaps your home has a floor above your bathroom. Even though it would make the installation easier, you can still add a fan without an attic.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install a bathroom exhaust fan myself?

Installing a bathroom fan is a job that can be done by the average homeowner. The most complicated part of this is connecting the switch to the power of a neighboring switch. If you are comfortable with that type of work, I am confident you can complete this job in a couple of hours.

Do bathroom exhaust fans need to be vented outside?

Although it is best to have the fan vented outside, it doesn’t need to be vented at all. There are ductless bathroom fans that do not require being vented outside. 

Do you need an electrician to install a bathroom fan?

If you are new to these types of projects, I recommend getting an electrician to help you with this project. If you are comfortable with learning how to do it yourself, there are plenty of resources you can use that will teach you the proper method to do this type of job. I had an electrician hook up the electricity for my fan, where I did the rest of the work.

Now you know how to install a bathroom fan where there wasn’t one before. I hope this article helped you with this project. It really isn’t a hard project if you follow the process correctly. Just break it down into easy to complete steps and it will be an easier project than you think. 

 

Thank you for visiting Remodel Upgrade. I am writing these articles to help you build your sanctuary. I believe you can do many of the home remodeling and repair jobs you are interested in. 

 

Happy Remodeling,

Kevin

Kevin

I grew up in a family where my dad and several uncles were general contractors. They took me to the jobsites, and also taught me so much about home maintenance. I remember spending several summers in high school helping my father build houses. It gave me so much knowledge that I am excited to share!

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How To Stop A Toilet From Running https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-stop-a-toilet-from-running/ https://remodelupgrade.com/how-to-stop-a-toilet-from-running/#respond Thu, 12 Dec 2024 06:23:09 +0000 http://remodelupgrade.com/?p=4522 Knowing how to stop a toilet from running is a quick and simple process. You don’t need any special tools, and replacement parts are inexpensive. If you are not a diy, hands on type you can still fix a running toilet yourself. Follow the process in this article instead of paying an expensive plumber. There is a chance that after you try all the options in this article, your toilet is at a point that it needs to be replaced. You will know this after you fix it and another problem comes back a little later.  The good news is changing a toilet is not difficult. Take a look at this article on How To Install A Toilet By Yourself. I walk you through the steps on switching out your toilet yourself. This is another project that isn’t complicated. Contents Diagnosing The Problem Parts of a Toilet Toilet Keeps Running Randomly Toilet Runs Constantly Toilet Keeps Running After Flushing How To Stop a Running Toilet In Seconds How To Fix A Running Toilet How To Fix A Running Toilet With A Button Flush Frequently Asked Questions Diagnosing The Problem Toilet Runs After Flush Toilet Runs Constantly Toilet Runs Randomly The reason for a toilet to run after being flushed is the flush valve is not going back down after the flush. There can be more than one reason for this, but they are easy to find. A constantly running toilet happens when the float is sitting higher than the overflow pipe. If the float is unable to do its job properly, it will not turn the water supply off.  Randomly running toilets happen because the flapper/flush valve gasket is faulty. There are more than one reason for this, and there are more than one solutions to this. Parts of a Toilet There are more than one type of toilet out there. They all have similar parts, and work basically the same way. Once you understand the components that make a toilet work, you will understand more about how they may fail and cause the toilet to run. Most of the parts below are in every toilet style. The flapper and fill valve gasket serve similar functions but are different parts. And the other parts can look different but have the same functions.  Fill Valve The fill valve is a vertical pipe with a valve at the top. It regulates the water flowing into the tank. It is designed to shut the water off when the float gets to a certain height. Float The float is a piece that rises with the water level. As it reaches a certain height it shuts off the water flowing out of the fill valve. The height of the water level can be adjusted by raising or lowering the float.  Float Adjustment All floats have a way to adjust them. The floats on a newer fill valve generally have an adjustment screw. If turned to one direction it raises the float height, and the other direction lowers it. If your float is the type that is connected to a metal rod you will grip the rod with both hands, and bend it in the direction you want it to go. Overflow Pipe The overflow pipe is a requirement for all toilets. In the event of the fill valve malfunctioning, the overflow pipe transfers water to the toilet bowl instead of overflowing the tank. The height of this pipe should be below the tank rim. The water level height should be between one quarter of an inch and one inch below the top of the overflow pipe. Flapper The flapper is a rubber piece that is connected at the base of the overflow pipe. It is used for some toilet designs to create a watertight seal in the opening of the bottom of the tank. It is connected with a chain to the handle, which raises the flapper whenever the toilet is flushed. Flush Valve Gasket The flush valve gasket is a piece that has a similar function to a flapper, but on a different toilet design. Flush valves are a more compact stack that the gasket goes around, unlike a flapper that is offset.  Handle The handle is the portion of a toilet that we use to flush when necessary. Inside the tank the handle is connected to the flapper or flush valve with a chain. Toilet Keeps Running Randomly There are a handful of reasons why a toilet keeps running randomly. You can narrow the investigation to a few key parts. All of these parts will be located in the toilet tank. This is the rectangular portion that is closest to the wall and higher than the bowl. Begin by taking the lid off the tank.   Inside the tank are several parts designed to work together. If one of these parts stop working right it may be the reason for the toilet running. Let’s take a look at the different parts of a toilet, and what their functions are. This can help you understand what you are looking for. Toilet Runs Constantly The number one reason why a toilet runs constantly is because the float is set at a higher level than the top of the overflow pipe. This causes the water to spill into the bowl, keeping the water flowing and not shutting off. The fix for this is simple and does not need replacement parts.   The solution to this problem is to adjust the height of the float so that the water level in the tank is below the top of the overflow pipe. The way to do this depends on the style of float your toilet uses. You want the water level to sit ¼ to 1 inch below the top of the overflow pipe.    If it’s a ball float you can adjust the height with your hands. Grip the bar holding the float with both hands and bend the side closer to the float towards the

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Knowing how to stop a toilet from running is a quick and simple process. You don’t need any special tools, and replacement parts are inexpensive. If you are not a diy, hands on type you can still fix a running toilet yourself. Follow the process in this article instead of paying an expensive plumber.

There is a chance that after you try all the options in this article, your toilet is at a point that it needs to be replaced. You will know this after you fix it and another problem comes back a little later. 

The good news is changing a toilet is not difficult. Take a look at this article on How To Install A Toilet By Yourself. I walk you through the steps on switching out your toilet yourself. This is another project that isn’t complicated.

Diagnosing The Problem

Toilet Runs After Flush

Toilet Runs Constantly

Toilet Runs Randomly

The reason for a toilet to run after being flushed is the flush valve is not going back down after the flush. There can be more than one reason for this, but they are easy to find.

A constantly running toilet happens when the float is sitting higher than the overflow pipe. If the float is unable to do its job properly, it will not turn the water supply off. 

Randomly running toilets happen because the flapper/flush valve gasket is faulty. There are more than one reason for this, and there are more than one solutions to this.

Parts of a Toilet

parts of a toilet

There are more than one type of toilet out there. They all have similar parts, and work basically the same way. Once you understand the components that make a toilet work, you will understand more about how they may fail and cause the toilet to run. Most of the parts below are in every toilet style. The flapper and fill valve gasket serve similar functions but are different parts. And the other parts can look different but have the same functions. 

Fill Valve

The fill valve is a vertical pipe with a valve at the top. It regulates the water flowing into the tank. It is designed to shut the water off when the float gets to a certain height.

Float

The float is a piece that rises with the water level. As it reaches a certain height it shuts off the water flowing out of the fill valve. The height of the water level can be adjusted by raising or lowering the float. 

Float Adjustment

All floats have a way to adjust them. The floats on a newer fill valve generally have an adjustment screw. If turned to one direction it raises the float height, and the other direction lowers it. If your float is the type that is connected to a metal rod you will grip the rod with both hands, and bend it in the direction you want it to go.

Overflow Pipe

The overflow pipe is a requirement for all toilets. In the event of the fill valve malfunctioning, the overflow pipe transfers water to the toilet bowl instead of overflowing the tank. The height of this pipe should be below the tank rim. The water level height should be between one quarter of an inch and one inch below the top of the overflow pipe.

Flapper

The flapper is a rubber piece that is connected at the base of the overflow pipe. It is used for some toilet designs to create a watertight seal in the opening of the bottom of the tank. It is connected with a chain to the handle, which raises the flapper whenever the toilet is flushed.

Flush Valve Gasket

The flush valve gasket is a piece that has a similar function to a flapper, but on a different toilet design. Flush valves are a more compact stack that the gasket goes around, unlike a flapper that is offset. 

Handle

The handle is the portion of a toilet that we use to flush when necessary. Inside the tank the handle is connected to the flapper or flush valve with a chain.

Toilet Keeps Running Randomly

There are a handful of reasons why a toilet keeps running randomly. You can narrow the investigation to a few key parts. All of these parts will be located in the toilet tank. This is the rectangular portion that is closest to the wall and higher than the bowl. Begin by taking the lid off the tank.

 

Inside the tank are several parts designed to work together. If one of these parts stop working right it may be the reason for the toilet running. Let’s take a look at the different parts of a toilet, and what their functions are. This can help you understand what you are looking for.

Toilet Runs Constantly

The number one reason why a toilet runs constantly is because the float is set at a higher level than the top of the overflow pipe. This causes the water to spill into the bowl, keeping the water flowing and not shutting off. The fix for this is simple and does not need replacement parts.

 

The solution to this problem is to adjust the height of the float so that the water level in the tank is below the top of the overflow pipe. The way to do this depends on the style of float your toilet uses. You want the water level to sit ¼ to 1 inch below the top of the overflow pipe. 

 

If it’s a ball float you can adjust the height with your hands. Grip the bar holding the float with both hands and bend the side closer to the float towards the ground. Flush the toilet and check the water height to verify you have it at a good position. 

 

The other type of float adjustment has a thumb screw facing up. You can turn it by hand to lower the float. If you have trouble turning it by hand you can use a screwdriver.

Toilet Keeps Running After Flush

This happens because the flapper or flush valve is not going down at the right time after the flush. This could be because the chain is twisted or kinking. Take the chain off the handle and straighten it out. 

 

If the flapper is the issue you may need to change the flush assembly.

How To Stop a Running Toilet in Seconds

The first thing you can check is if the flapper or the flush gasket has some sort of buildup. Over time a film can form on the surfaces of the tank. If this film is on the flapper or gasket it can cause the toilet to run. 

 

To check this, reach your hand in the tank and lift the flapper/gasket. Wipe off around the base of the flapper as best you can. Do the same thing to the surface that the flapper sits on when resting. 

 

You want to feel the condition of the flapper or gasket to see if it is brittle or cracked. If so it is time to replace it. This is a simple process that is outlined in the video above. 

 

This is a common possibility that causes a toilet to run. It should be the first thing you check, because it is a simple solution to the problem. If this isn’t the issue you can move onto the next step of finding the problem.

How To Fix A Running Toilet

One way to diagnose the problem is when the toilet is running you can wiggle the handle. If this causes the problem to stop, chances are the flush valve or overflow assembly needs to be replaced (depending on the type of toilet you have). When you lift the lid, check if the chain connecting the handle to the flush valve is straight and not kinked.

 

If you notice there are signs of the flapper or flush valve gasket in bad condition, you should change this. 

 

This can be done by removing the tank from the bowl via the two connection screws. You can either take the assembly off and bring it to the hardware store to purchase a new one, or you can take a picture and bring that with you. Write down the brand of the toilet as well, and try to match that to the part you get.

 

There is also a chance that the float is positioned too high. This would cause the water level to be higher than the overflow pipe. This will cause water to spill into the toilet bowl constantly. Fix this problem by bending the arm that holds the float downward. This should lower the water level to a reasonable height.

How To Fix A Running Toilet With A Button Flush

A toilet with a button flush has different parts than the toilets listed above, but they work the same way. You will want to troubleshoot in a similar fashion as above, and work on the necessary parts. 

 

If you need to change any parts, aim at purchasing parts by the same manufacturer as your toilet, or ones that are compatible with your brand.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you fix a toilet that keeps running?

The main cause for this problem is the float is at a level that is too high to shut off the water before it flows into the bowl. The steps to fix this problem are listed above in the section titled Toilet Runs Constantly.

What are the most common causes of a running toilet?

One common cause that causes a toilet to run is a film that has covered the flapper. If enough of this film covers the underside of it, there will be water that runs from the tank to the bowl. This is simple to fix and needs no new parts. Another common issue is the flapper is old and brittle. The cracks in it will cause the water to run as well. This requires a new flapper to be installed.

Why won’t the water stop running into my toilet?

There are several reasons why the water is running in your toilet. They are outlined above. You may want to go through the process outlined in this article to troubleshoot the problem and fix the issue.

Why is my toilet running after I flush?

The toilet runs after the flush because the flapper or flush valve is stuck in an up position longer than it should after the flush. The solution to this is listed above in the section titled Toilet Keeps Running After Flush. Follow these steps to troubleshoot and solve the issue. 

Is it bad if my toilet keeps running?

A running toilet can be a sign of a larger issue. You will want to fix the problem in order to save money on your water bill if nothing else. Fixing the issue doesn’t take long, and most likely isn’t expensive. Start at the top of this article and follow the steps to fixing the issue to this problem.

Conclusion

Stopping a toilet from running isn’t difficult. It is a quick fix that is easy to troubleshoot. If you follow along with this article, you will solve the problem of having a running toilet. I hope this article helped. 

 

Thank you for reading this article. Here at Remodel Upgrade I am dedicated to helping you create your sanctuary. 

 

You got this,

Kevin

Kevin

I grew up in a family where my dad and several uncles were general contractors. They took me to the jobsites, and also taught me so much about home maintenance. I remember spending several summers in high school helping my father build houses. It gave me so much knowledge that I am excited to share!

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Three Borax Ant Killer Recipes You Can Make At Home https://remodelupgrade.com/three-borax-ant-killer-recipes-you-can-make-at-home/ https://remodelupgrade.com/three-borax-ant-killer-recipes-you-can-make-at-home/#respond Sat, 30 Nov 2024 01:41:49 +0000 https://remodelupgrade.com/?p=4445 The borax ant killer recipe in this article is easy to make. In fact chances are you probably already have the ingredients in your house. If you don’t, they are very easy to get. If it helps you click the image in this article of the ingredient you need. Now lets get into how to make three borax ant killer recipes. Disclaimer: The product links in this article are affiliate links. That doesn’t mean you will be paying any extra when you purchase. The price you pay is the same as if they were not affiliate links. I get a commission on each sale, which is a big help for me to keep this blog operating. Thank you for your assistance.  Borax is a common household product that has many uses. It typically comes in a cardboard box and is a white powdery substance. It can be naturally occurring and contains boron, sodium, and oxygen. You may have it already at your home, but if you don’t it’s easy to find at a store that sells cleaning supplies. Borax is an ingredient for a diy ant killer recipe. In fact there are several recipes that can be tried, but I am going to share with you what I believe is the best one. It has three ingredients that are easy to get.  Like other ant baits, this diy ant bait recipe is one that will take a bit of time to work. It may take a few days before you stop noticing the ants. This is because it takes time for them to consume the bait and bring it back to the colony. Contents Best Borax Ant Killer Recipe Recipe For Borax And Sugar To Kill Ants Recipe #1 Recipe #2 Recipe #3 Frequently Asked Questions Conclusion Best Borax Ant Killer Recipe There are several different recipes that can be used to kill ants with borax. The first recipe I am going to teach you is my favorite recipe. I use this one the most, and think this is the first one you should try.  The other recipes may be better for different applications, but still do the job well. Now let’s get into the best borax ant killer recipe.  Recipe For Borax And Sugar To Kill Ants The two key ingredients that will be used are borax and sugar. The sugar is to lure them in to eat the bait, and the borax is going to kill the colony.  The way it works is the ants will find the sugar mixture and consume it. They will then carry it back to the colony. It’s in the colony where the rest of the ants, including the queen, will eat the mixture.  Soon you will have no more ant problems.  Borax Ant Killer Recipe #1 This first recipe is my favorite. It isn’t hard to make, and doesn’t take any special equipment either. In fact the equipment that is needed for it are common items that you most likely have in the home. If you don’t have the exact items listed below you can substitute what you do have. Ingredients Borax Sugar Water Equipment Gloves Measuring Spoon Mixing Bowl Spoon When making any of the recipes in this article, it is always recommended to use protective gloves. Borax is a chemical that can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact whenever possible, and use necessary protective equipment as well. You don’t need much of the ingredients to make a bait station for ants. These can be placed anywhere there are visible signs of ants in your home. They will eat the bait and take it back to the nest. There it will kill the nest, getting rid of the ants in your home. Borax to Sugar Ratio The ratio for the bait is 1:1. You want to use equal parts of borax and sugar for this recipe to work the best. The amount of water may vary slightly, but it won’t take much water to make. The goal is for you to make it into a paste-like consistency. This will keep the poison in a solid state so the ants have an easy time taking it back to their nest. Small Batch of Borax Ant Killer Recipe Typically households that have an ant problem inside don’t need to make much of this poison. That’s why we will take  a look at the recipe for making a small batch of it. If you need a larger amount you can scale up the quantities of each ingredient. Steps Pour 1 tbsp of borax in a mixing bowl with 1 tbsp of sugar.  Add water to the mixture in small increments at a time.  Mix it up adding more water until it is in a paste-like consistency.  Transfer the mixture to the shallow dish and place it near the ant trail. If the ants are coming down a wall you can put this dish near the wall where it is directly below their trail. If they are on a counter you will want to place it nearby so it is as close to the trail as possible. You will need to be patient at this point. Soon a scout ant will find the poison and tell the others. Until then you can only wait. Borax Ant Killer Recipe #2 This is a variation of the first recipe, and requires the same ingredients. The main difference is there is one extra piece you are going to need. Ingredients Borax Sugar Water Cotton Ball Equipment Gloves Measuring Spoons Mixing Bowl Spoon The only additional ingredient is the cotton ball. I am calling this an ingredient because it is mixed with the other ingredients and used as a delivery tool.  The ratio of borax to sugar is still the same. Use equal parts borax and sugar. You want to use more water this time to make it easier to saturate the cotton ball. Make the mixture a liquid, instead of a paste. Steps Pour 2 tbsp borax into

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The borax ant killer recipe in this article is easy to make. In fact chances are you probably already have the ingredients in your house. If you don’t, they are very easy to get. If it helps you click the image in this article of the ingredient you need. Now lets get into how to make three borax ant killer recipes.

 

Disclaimer: The product links in this article are affiliate links. That doesn’t mean you will be paying any extra when you purchase. The price you pay is the same as if they were not affiliate links. I get a commission on each sale, which is a big help for me to keep this blog operating. Thank you for your assistance. 

 

Borax is a common household product that has many uses. It typically comes in a cardboard box and is a white powdery substance. It can be naturally occurring and contains boron, sodium, and oxygen. You may have it already at your home, but if you don’t it’s easy to find at a store that sells cleaning supplies.

 

Borax is an ingredient for a diy ant killer recipe. In fact there are several recipes that can be tried, but I am going to share with you what I believe is the best one. It has three ingredients that are easy to get. 

 

Like other ant baits, this diy ant bait recipe is one that will take a bit of time to work. It may take a few days before you stop noticing the ants. This is because it takes time for them to consume the bait and bring it back to the colony.

Best Borax Ant Killer Recipe

There are several different recipes that can be used to kill ants with borax. The first recipe I am going to teach you is my favorite recipe. I use this one the most, and think this is the first one you should try. 

 

The other recipes may be better for different applications, but still do the job well. Now let’s get into the best borax ant killer recipe. 

Recipe For Borax And Sugar To Kill Ants

The two key ingredients that will be used are borax and sugar. The sugar is to lure them in to eat the bait, and the borax is going to kill the colony. 

The way it works is the ants will find the sugar mixture and consume it. They will then carry it back to the colony. It’s in the colony where the rest of the ants, including the queen, will eat the mixture. 

 

Soon you will have no more ant problems. 

Borax Ant Killer Recipe #1

This first recipe is my favorite. It isn’t hard to make, and doesn’t take any special equipment either. In fact the equipment that is needed for it are common items that you most likely have in the home. If you don’t have the exact items listed below you can substitute what you do have.

Ingredients

Equipment

When making any of the recipes in this article, it is always recommended to use protective gloves. Borax is a chemical that can cause skin irritation. Avoid contact whenever possible, and use necessary protective equipment as well.

 

You don’t need much of the ingredients to make a bait station for ants. These can be placed anywhere there are visible signs of ants in your home. They will eat the bait and take it back to the nest. There it will kill the nest, getting rid of the ants in your home.

Borax to Sugar Ratio

The ratio for the bait is 1:1. You want to use equal parts of borax and sugar for this recipe to work the best. The amount of water may vary slightly, but it won’t take much water to make.

 

The goal is for you to make it into a paste-like consistency. This will keep the poison in a solid state so the ants have an easy time taking it back to their nest.

Small Batch of Borax Ant Killer Recipe

Typically households that have an ant problem inside don’t need to make much of this poison. That’s why we will take  a look at the recipe for making a small batch of it. If you need a larger amount you can scale up the quantities of each ingredient.

Steps

  1. Pour 1 tbsp of borax in a mixing bowl with 1 tbsp of sugar. 
  2. Add water to the mixture in small increments at a time. 
  3. Mix it up adding more water until it is in a paste-like consistency. 
  4. Transfer the mixture to the shallow dish and place it near the ant trail.

If the ants are coming down a wall you can put this dish near the wall where it is directly below their trail. If they are on a counter you will want to place it nearby so it is as close to the trail as possible.

 

You will need to be patient at this point. Soon a scout ant will find the poison and tell the others. Until then you can only wait.

Borax Ant Killer Recipe #2

This is a variation of the first recipe, and requires the same ingredients. The main difference is there is one extra piece you are going to need.

Ingredients

Equipment

The only additional ingredient is the cotton ball. I am calling this an ingredient because it is mixed with the other ingredients and used as a delivery tool. 

 

The ratio of borax to sugar is still the same. Use equal parts borax and sugar. You want to use more water this time to make it easier to saturate the cotton ball. Make the mixture a liquid, instead of a paste.

Steps

  1. Pour 2 tbsp borax into the bowl.
  2. Pour 2 tbsp sugar into the bowl.
  3. Add ¼ cup water to the bowl.
  4. Mix it until all the powder is dissolved. 
  5. Dip the cotton ball in the solution until it is fully saturated.

You can place these cotton balls near the ant trail. You may want to put them on something like a bottle cap. This will help keep the surface clean of borax and sugar.

Borax Ant killer Recipe #3

The third recipe to kill a colony of ants is a bit different than the other two. The concept works the same, but the ingredients are different.

Ingredients

Equipment

This recipe replaces the sugar with peanut butter. It is recommended that you use creamy peanut butter, but you don’t need to bother with going out to buy it if you have chunky peanut butter in the house. The ants will eat the peanut butter which has borax with it.

Steps

  1. Scoop two or three spoonfuls of peanut butter into the mixing bowl.
  2. Add three tbsp of borax. 
  3. Mix the borax into the peanut butter well.
  4. Add the mixture to the shallow dish.
  5. Place the dish near the trail of ants.

This recipe uses a bit more borax. This is because you want to make sure you have enough mixed into the peanut butter. You also want to make sure it is mixed thoroughly.

 

The ants are less likely to grab pure borax. That’s why we use delivery ingredients like peanut butter or sugar water. They don’t like the flavor of borax, but they do like the other ingredients’ flavor.

Conclusion

The method for using a diy borax ant killer recipe is quite simple. There are slight variations in the recipe, but the basic concept is the same. As long as the ants take the borax back to the nest they will be killed.

 

I hope this article helped you with your ant issues. Check out the other articles I have here on the site for more helpful content.

 

Here at Remodel Upgrade I am dedicated to helping you create your castle. I do that by teaching you the best tips and showing you the best tools for your home remodel projects.

 

Happy Remodeling,

Kevin

Kevin

I grew up in a family where my dad and several uncles were general contractors. They took me to the jobsites, and also taught me so much about home maintenance. I remember spending several summers in high school helping my father build houses. It gave me so much knowledge that I am excited to share!

Frequently Asked Questions

Will sprinkling Borax kill ants?

Sprinkling plain borax around the ants will not kill them. This is because they will not eat the borax. That’s why borax needs to be mixed with a delivery ingredient in order to work on the ants.

What is the best homemade ant killer?

The best homemade ant killer is borax, sugar, and water. You will want to figure out a way to deliver the mixture to the ants. Several of those ways are highlighted in this article above.

How long does it take for Borax to kill an ant colony?

It generally will take several days for the borax to work at killing an ant colony. This can vary slightly depending on the colony. It typically takes 2-3 days. But sometimes it can be up to a week to fully work. Make sure the bait stations are maintained properly. You may need to replenish them throughout the process.

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